look1/proto#2

 sunday afternoon at the LAB, sewing and modifying my second prototype for look 1. 

I made the pattern from the 1st drape, modified some things and cut it out of new cotton knit fabric...

 I thought perhaps it could give me a better idea of how the realpiece would look/feel.

 The "minisleeve" took me forever, and I am still not convinced- but today I have a meeting with my prof, and i needed to moove on. So here is it THUS FAR:

                

prototyping II

This past wednesday I was still off from my internship because my boss was still in London presenting her line at Estetica. 

So...

 I went to the LAB to try and get a head start with the draping/patternmaking of my prototypes! I AM 80% done... I need to drape some sleeves and pattern my second look. well... thats maybe like 60%.. LOL!

here are some imgs of the back/side of  look #2.

                                   

have a good one!

Launch of Theses Collection Wales

On Friday 18th February 2011 the Welsh Repository Network held a launch event for ' Theses Collection Wales'. The collection allows users to view both electronic and paper copies of theses and dissertations from every Higher Education Institution (HEI) in Wales through a dedicated catalogue.

Screen shot of 'Theses Collection Wales'

Held in Y Drwm at the National Library of Wales the launch event was attended by approximately 35 people from around Wales.


The Theses Collection Wales includes approximately 50,000 theses and dissertations which have been presented for postgraduate degrees in Welsh HEIs. The collection comprises theses and dissertations arising from PhD and research Masters degrees, as well as taught Masters dissertations which have a Welsh interest or have gained a distinction.

Participants at the launch

The vast majority of the current collection is in paper format, but electronic deposit is becoming increasingly common. Through the WRN every HEI in Wales has developed an institutional repository to store and provide online access to their research output, including electronic theses and dissertations - more commonly referred to as 'e-theses'. In 2009 the NLW and the WRN began work on the ‘e-theses harvesting service.’ This service enabled the NLW to collect, through harvesting, copies of the full-text e-theses and to provide continued access to them through preservation management.

The project team

Anyone may search Theses Collection Wales but to access the resources within the collection it is necessary to register as a NLW reader. This will enable you to request to view a print copy of a thesis in the Library Reading Rooms or alternatively to view and download an e-thesis within the catalogue.

All of the electronic PhD theses that have been collected by the NLW from participating institutions will be further harvested by the British Library’s EThOS service. EThOS aims to provide access to all theses produced by UK higher education. For more information regarding EThOS visit http://ethos.bl.uk/

The presentations delivered during the event are now available online by following the relevant links below:

A Long and Winding Road: the creation of Theses Collection Wales
Jackie Knowles, Project Manager, Welsh Repository Network


Demonstration of Theses Collection Wales
Siân Thomas, National Library of Wales

The future of repositories
Balviar Notay, Information Environment Programme Manager, JISC


EThOS Update
Vicky Roy & Andy Appleyard, British Library

swatch development

these are the newly developed swatches. more bubbles, this time KNIT with the yarn that I'm actually using for the garments... its 100% muesling free merino wool and a 100%organically grown cotton.

last night I watched about an hour and a half of "GONE WITH THE WIND" while I practiced my boullion knots. I used DMC "mouline special" in forest green, terracotta, and brown. I think it looked great just with the brown knots, but got carried away and kept going. Please remember these "fabrics" will not be white in the end.

this was my original attempt at DYING (with rit dyes just to test)... these are not made with the wool yarn, so the de-poof after traveling from/to school. THIS is why I'm in dying-crisis!

dying questions

I'm becoming a bit obsessed with this DYE_journey. I've always been a fan of textile arts and dying/fabric painting in particular is something I've practiced since very young.

I never knew I would have to ask myself if dying was an option or not- because of the environmental consecuences it has. I guess, I just never thought about it until now.
THERE IS SO MUCH TO LEARN!

I've continued my quest for the "perfect" dyes for this project. I'm just too deep into the hole to retract and change the entire concept: 

• TO BEGIN WITH... my inspiration is about "critical weathering", moss and roots.. those things are intensely green, brown and "dirty"... not a lot of white going on...
• I've ALREADY bought my ecologically friendly (100%organically grown cotton + 100% muesling free merino wool), "natural" yarns (meaning, not colored)
• developed swatches
• and fallen too in ♥ with what I'm doing

PLUS, I think that design shouldnt "suffer" because of sustainability, and that there is no need to be "FANATICAL" or "ESTREMIST" to consider yourself  "responsible". The whole idea is to work in a whollistic way, and considering all steps of the process as an opportunity for making "better", ethically concious desitions. There are so many ways we can CHANGE the negative impact we have: 

• by working with sustainable materials (recycled, organically produced, fairly-traded...)
• producing things using nicer, slower, less industrial, artigianal methods
• thinking about reducing our waste, and the unnecessary
• questioning the message we are trying to convey 
• pondering about the maintenance and end of life of the products we create...

(just some examples)

so...

since I am using very nice materials, making everything BY HAND (with the help of a mecanical/not elecrical machine), 
to make what I hope will be some beautifull works of art that will both be WORN and EXhibited, are NOT "TRENDY" and will thus last a LIFETIME...

I think it will be okay to use some [non hazardous, non toxic, non chrome, low impact, heavy-metal free ACID dyesm that conform to the Organic Trade Association's Standards x Organic Fiber processing] that I found through ETSY: 

Greener Shades<sup>TM


any comments???</sup>

coming to terms with DYE-ing

I know one cannot believe eveything the world wide web provides, but in my efforts to work in a more sustainable/ethically responsible way, most of my accessible re-sources are online.

After several  failed attempts to dye my organic cotton and muesling free wool- knit swatches using natural materials (spinach, tumerric and curry spices, coffee) I think its time to admit that they are not going to provide me with the colors I'm needing for THIS specific project. 

[The curry spice gives a beautiful INTENSE mustard color that I will definitely play with in a near future-despite the pungent "spice" scent it leaves behind. My roommate said it was a bit overwelming-aka:not pleasant-!]

so... I'm off to finding other possibilities within the "environmentally-friendly" realm. 

I've started looking up "low impact dyes" and according to kidbean.com: 

Low-impact dyes are petroleum-based, synthetic dyes with a higher than average absorption rate (70%-80%, depending on the color). This means less water is required in the rinse process and less dye runs off in the water; therefore, the dyes have a lower impact on the environment. Low-impact dyes also typically do not contain heavy metals (like chrome, copper and zinc), nor do they require toxic chemical mordants to fix them to the fiber. 

Even though they are made from synthetic materials, low-impact dyes are generally considered eco-friendly and often preferable to natural dyes because:

• natural dyes often require a much larger quantity of dye (often close to or equal to the weight of the fiber itself), which may mean a much greater environmental impact
• natural dyes often require a much larger volume of water for the dye process
• natural dyes require the use of chemical mordants to fix the dye to the fiber
• natural dyes are available in fewer colors than low-impact dyes

AND (http://organicclothing.blogs.com/my_weblog/2005/10/dyes_and_chemic.html):

1. Low-impact fiber-reactive dyes.  Fiber-reactive dyes are a synthetic dye that chemically bonds directly to the clothing fiber molecules. They were first used commercially in 1956.  The fixation or absorption rate of low-impact dyes is at least 70%, creating less waste water runoff and therefore a lower impact on the environment. Recent advances have created fiber-reactive dyes with colors that are brighter and richer, and they provide excellent colorfast properties. They contain no heavy metals or other known toxic substances, and they meet all European Union criteria for being an eco-friendly pigment.  But, the actual dyes in almost all low-impact fiber-reactive dyes are still made from synthetic petrochemicals.
2. Natural dyes. "Contrary to popular opinion, natural dyes are often neither safer nor more ecologically sound than synthetic dyes. They are less permanent, more difficult to apply, wash out more easily, and often involve the use of highly toxic mordants.  However, not all mordants are equally toxic, and the idea of natural dyestuffs is aesthetically pleasing." according to Paula Burch, PhD.  Mordants help make the dye colorfast by chemically bonding the dye to the fabric. Dr. Burch reports that "Some natural dyes, such as the hematein derived from logwood, are themselves significantly poisonous. Of course, the color possibilities are far more limited than synthetic dyes."

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

CAN I COMPROMISE?

I'm thinking that my next collections might be all white, beige and brown--- this dying process is beginning to make things VERY COMPLICATED!

♥

proto-typing

did you know that there is so much more work to these garments/art pieces than meets the eye?

did you know that the best part of being a "designer" is the PROCESS OF CREATION? 

did you know that every aspect of development has endles possibilities, that when you are on a roll -too many ideas come to mind at once- and it's difficult to focus, keep a straight face and concentrate on FINISHING something- I just want to play all day!

here are some pictures of my "drapes" for 2 of my thesis collection "garments"

The Offside rules...

CreativeControl.com

Layder TV

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This show is meant to bring The Layders closer to their audience as well as bring the audience closer to them thought capturing live acts,collaborations,studio hardships,etc.Thus this show acts as the most direct portal into the life of a Layder.

NERD Ticket give away

Proudly Presents...



So we have two double tickets to give away to one of the best bands in the USA, all brought to you by Hansa Pilsner. N.E.R.D will be performing live this Saturday 12th February 2011 at the Standard Bank Arena, Johannesburg.

In the spirit of brand loyalty, honesty and fun, the competition will run as follows.

• You will be requested to buy a seal 6 pack of Hansa Pilnser (Brand loyalty)
• Come to Thesis Concept Store and drink four of the 6 beers in a relaxed mood. (Honesty)
• The 1st and 2nd person to finish their beers will receive the tickets. (Fun)

This will be posted on the blog.

Alternatively, you can do the same and do a video, post it on youtube under the name, "Thesis I want tickets" of you doing something crazy with Hansa Pilsner.

Competition and opens Friday 18h00 and closes at night 22h00. Thesis Concept will be open at that time, just for you.

Cuss Monthly

Cuss is a new monthly, offering designer vintage clothing, trends, photography, girls, art and style. To get yourself a copy download the lookbook.

bubble-ING away!

happy saturday.feliz sabado. buon sabato....

 (beh, ormai è domenica!!!)

today I woke up at the crack of dawn for a meeting and brunch at greydog

- YUMmmy (french toast w fruit, eggs over easy+ homefries)-

 and then

headed to New Jersey to the Silk-City warehouse/outlet sale, which takes place every first saturday of the month... ONLY that they were not there (perhaps due to sucky weather, but they could've at least put a sign up on the door)...

dissapointed, we came back to NYC, and to FIT's knitting lab- where I decided to test my thicker yarns on the 3gg brother machine...

 I EMBARKED ON A BUBBLE-Y adventure. The results were really cool...

below: some pics of the swatches I've developed so far.

I've been playing with "bubble" size, placement, shape, technique and YARN CONTENT.

my conclusions for the day:

1. will need to use some wool to help the cotton keep its shape
2. there are not many fine gauge sustainable  yarns
3. might need to knit each bubble individually - to individually dye them, to indivdually place them on a form, to FORM- a conglomerate of magic moss-y bubbles!
4. this is going to be a lot of work and a "couture-ish" adventure, but I'm really enjoying it and willing to give it a go go!

bubble swatches togetha'

the 1st bubble ever- I like the idea of making indiv. ones         

this is probably the winner- merino wool +100% cotton

i like the juxtaposition/conglomeration, and irregularity!

              holding needles on "E", knit just one part                                                              this one is w shortrowing-like socks

Lion Brand Recycled Cotton- from Tshirts

 see how they protrude!

 here I added some merino wool- it started to have a better effect! I also combined 2 techniques

  this was the first swatch I made once I figured out the technique- but I was still using the 100%cotton yarn + 6gg brother machine
 the shapes were good, but they didnt stay "poofy".

"thesis" collection: sketches/initial concept boards

saludos cariños!
I promised more images and here they are: I am sharing with you the initial mood/concept boards and 1st sketches for the "thesis" collection I am working on.

I posted some swatch development images before- and will post more soon- but here is the real juicy stuff:

translated into form

raw inspiration: mossyness/critical weathering

whalá! still under development/research-- but ideas are flowing. I plan on doing 1 & 3 (left -right)

Little Dragon

Great Picture of Little Dragon. taken from the Madbury Club.

Inspiration